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What Are The Rules Of Bouldering

Bouldering is free-form climbing without using harnesses or ropes. You can boulder on artificial walls or small rock formations. There are no set rules for recreational bouldering. Keep reading to find out what gear you will need if you want to take up bouldering and what the rules are should you choose to compete. Affiliate Disclaimer Boulderingwire is an affiliate and we earn from qualifying purchases. We receive commissions for purchases made through links in this post. × Dismiss alert What Is a Bouldering Problem? A bouldering problem is the sequence of moves a climber performs. Bouldering problems are usually less than 20 feet tall. This is how they differ from free solo climbing which is also performed without the use of ropes. Rules for Competition Bouldering An IFSC (International Federation of Sports Climbing) competition consists of several rounds, qualifications, semi-finals, and finals. Each round has multiple boulder problems. Each climber has a set amount of time in which to solve each problem. Using Starting Holds IFSC rules state competition problems must be started from specially marked start holds. If a climber is not tall enough to reach the start holds, the climber is permitted to jump up to reach them. The timer starts once the climber’s body has completely left the ground. The climbers are ranked based on the number of problems solved. Start holds in competition bouldering are marked Start or by different colored tape than the rest of the holds. Some recreational starts are marked by tape in the shape of a V that points to a hold, or a triangle shape. Occasionally, holds are marked Left and Right. A boulder problem can start with between one and four holds. The holds are marked with pieces of tape called a flash. If the problem starts with both hands in the same hold, that is indicated with two pieces of tape rather than one. In an all points start, there is only one start hold marked with four flashes. That means both hands and feet start from that one hold. Sit Starts In a sit start, your hands and feet need to be in the holds with your weight being supported by the ground. Your attempt at the problem starts when you pull your body off the ground. How To Finish The finishing hold on a recreational boulder will be clearly marked by a taped square around it. Alternatively, it may have a half square, or a taped V pointing to it. Some are marked with the same color tape as the start hold or holds. The finishing hold in a competition will be marked Final or Stop. Completing Your Attempt When both hands are stable on the finishing hold or holds, your attempt is complete. Stability is a requirement in the final position. Jumping up and hitting the final hold with a tap before coming down does not count. Controlled Finish Once the hold is used to bring the climber into a stable position, it is usually considered to be controlled. In competition, the judges will have the final say and will let the climber know when they have achieved an acceptable finish. Each boulder problem has a time limit. Climbers may make several attempts to finish within the given time limits. You have flashed the problem if you finish in the allotted time on the first attempt. What Can Cause an Attempt to Fail? If any part of the climber’s body touches the ground at any time If only one hand touches the final hold If the final hold is only touched briefly during a fall If anyone, including a spotter, touches you If your attempt exceeds the time limit What Do I Need to Start Bouldering? Although you will not need ropes or harnesses, you will still need some basic equipment to protect your body while climbing. Climbing Shoes Because bouldering is not that high off the ground, when bouldering indoors, shoes may be all the gear you need. There are three types of climbing shoes, and you may be able to rent them at your climbing facility. Neutral – This type of shoe is the most comfortable because it allows your toes to lie flat. Moderate – These have a slightly downturned shape which helps to grip. Aggressive – These shoes have a very downturned shape to focus the toe hold. Climbing Helmet The gym or climbing facility will let you know if you need a climbing helmet when you are climbing indoors. Because bouldering is lower than other types of climbs, not every climber wears a helmet. A hard-shell helmet usually has a low cost and a long lifespan. Hard-shell helmets are good for belaying, single-pitch sport climbing, and cool weather. A shelled foam helmet, while more expensive may be a better choice. Shelled foam helmets are lighter weight and have a thick foam padding to absorb impact. Shelled foam helmets are great for ice climbing, warm weather sport climbing, mountaineering, multi-pitch climbing, and indoor climbing. Crash Pads An indoor facility will already have crash pads in place. However, if you are bouldering outdoors you may want to bring your own crash pad. Spotter In bouldering, you do not need a belay partner like you do when you are rope climbing. It is still a good idea to have a friend with you to function as a spotter in case you fall or are injured. The spotter is not there to catch you, but rather to make sure your head and your shoulders do not crash into the ground. The more the merrier. Before You Start Like any sport, before you start climbing you should warm up your body to prevent muscle injury. This can be as simple as doing knee lifts, arm circles, or some jumping jacks. Warming up the muscles you will be using for just a few minutes before you start makes a world of difference. General Practices Climb within your physical capabilities Descend by controlled fall if you