As in every sport, you must be equipped with the correct gear to be successful, and bouldering is no exception. Bouldering is a uniquely agile and precision-intensive physical endeavor, and the shoes you wear while bouldering have to perform as such. While there are many things to look out for when hunting for the best bouldering shoe, as a beginner, your needs will be a tad different than an old pro. For those just embarking on their bouldering obsession, comfort, durability, and cost will be the biggest factors when purchasing bouldering shoes.
Are you still overwhelmed with the many bouldering shoe options on the market? Don’t sweat it. We will break it down for you in this article and point you in the right direction.
What are bouldering shoes?
Essentially, bouldering shoes are a specific type of climbing shoe designed for tackling bouldering problems, which are short but tricky climbs up an indoor bouldering wall or an outdoor small rock formation. Because bouldering is a free-form climbing sport, bouldering shoes are specifically constructed to withstand and aid in the immense strenuousness of the climb.
What characteristics should I look for in a beginner’s bouldering shoe?
Though bouldering shoes are a unique design themselves, within the category is a wide variety of shoes as well, ranging from a shoe fit for an expert to an intermediate to a beginner. For example, a bouldering shoe for an expert will have a more exaggerated shoe last and be softer and more flexible than a boulder shoe for a beginner. Understanding these distinctions will be key when determining which bouldering shoe to purchase as you begin honing your bouldering skills.
Below are the characteristics to look for when shopping for bouldering shoes as a beginner.
- Rigidity. This might seem counterintuitive, but having a stiff shoe as a bouldering beginner is a necessity. The strength of your feet and toes likely will not be at the level required to sustain the weight of your body on minuscule edges and crevasses all day. You will need time to build up this strength, as well as a little help while you practice during that time, and a rigid bouldering shoe will provide you with the barrier you need.
- Slightly downturned profile. Rather than the extreme curvature of the shoe of a seasoned bouldering athlete, a slightly downturned profile is best for a beginner. This allows for you to work with a more natural shape of your foot as you navigate easy to moderate bouldering problems that do not require as much precision.
- Modest asymmetrical shape. An asymmetrical shape of the shoe curves the foot inward, forcing weight on the big toe. As an expert, you will look for an asymmetrical bouldering shoe. However, as a beginner, a modest asymmetrical shape if not an entirely symmetrical shape is more appropriate. This will feel more natural to you and ensure your safety and comfort.
- Easy to slip on and off. Most of the bouldering shoes available to you will be secured by Velcro straps or will have a Velcro option. You will want a bouldering shoe with Velcro straps instead of the lace-up version for ease of use.
- Snug but not tight. This may go without saying, but you will have better chances of successfully completing a bouldering problem if your feet are not killing you. You do not want your shoes to be loose, as this risks your safety and agility while climbing, but you also do not want them to be constricting. As a general rule of thumb, your foot should not be able to move around inside the shoe, but it should not be painful to wear the shoe for extended periods of time.
What are the best bouldering shoes for beginners?
So, what are the best bouldering shoes for beginners? While there are many options, below are what we consider the top five bouldering shoes for beginners.
- La Sportiva Tarantula. A popular choice amongst beginners, the Tarantula adheres to the desired characteristics mentioned above: stiff, flat, comfortable, slightly asymmetrical, and comes in a Velcro version. The only downside to this shoe is that its thick rubber can leave you desensitized to the smallest holes and edges, and you may quickly be moving up to an intermediate shoe. You may want to go down a size with this shoe to avoid a loose fit.
- Mad Rock Drifter. In terms of affordability, this beginner’s bouldering shoe is a winner. It is a great place to start if you are not wanting to shell out the big bucks just yet on a bouldering shoe. Much like La Sportiva Tarantula, the Mad Rock Drifter has minimal curvature and modest asymmetry. Unlike the Tarantula, it has less stiffness, thus allowing you to be more sensitive to edges. Being a leather shoe, it will stretch over time, to not lose the snugness of the fit, go down half a size to start.
- Scarpa Arpia. For a more seamless transition into an advanced bouldering shoe but the feel still of a beginner’s bouldering shoe, consider the Scarpa Apria. This shoe’s profile is a bit more downturned than the previous options and features a more asymmetrical shape, both of which will help you gain more confidence in your edging skills while still providing the comfort and support of a beginner’s shoe. As with the Mad Rock Drifter, go down half a size here.
- Evolve Shaman. The Evolve Shaman is a wonderful option, especially if you like bouldering on overhangs. The shoe is designed with an added rubber covering over the big toe to provide stability and comfort while you strengthen your feet and toes. Its more advanced design also lends to a smoother transition up to an advanced bouldering shoe when you are ready.
- Black Diamond Momentum. When it comes to style, many people turn to the Black Diamond Momentum. But more than just a stylish shoe, this beginner’s bouldering shoe is built for comfort, literally, thanks to its breathable, knit make-up. The only con to this shoe is that it is not designed for those with wider than average feet.
Picking the right beginner’s bouldering shoe is a stepping stone (get it?) to perform more advanced bouldering problems.
